Why Won't My Dryer Heat Up? (Gas Igniter vs. Electric Element)
You pull laundry from the dryer only to discover the drum was spinning in room-temperature air for 50 minutes. Whether your appliance runs on a 240-volt electric circuit or natural gas, discover the step-by-step diagnostic sequence to test heating elements, hot surface igniters, flame sensors, and safety thermal fuses.
Quick Answer
If your clothes dryer tumbles but blows ice-cold air, the root cause depends on whether your appliance is electric or gas:
- Electric Dryers: Check your breaker panel first. Electric dryers run on dual 120V legs (240V total); if one breaker leg trips, the drum still spins on 120V but the heater has no power. If the breaker is fine, the failure is a burned-out heating element coil, a blown thermal cut-off fuse, or a stuck motor centrifugal switch.
- Gas Dryers: The most frequent culprit is a cracked hot surface igniter (which fails to glow), a defective flame sensor, or weak gas burner solenoid coils that fail to open the gas valve after heating up for several minutes.
Table of Contents
- Electric vs. Gas Heating: How Each Generates Thermal Energy
- Top 5 Reasons an Electric Dryer Won't Heat
- Top 5 Reasons a Gas Dryer Won't Heat
- Symptom & Failure Mode Quick Reference Matrix
- Step-by-Step Multimeter Tests: Electric Dryers
- Step-by-Step Diagnostic Tests: Gas Dryers
- The Critical Danger: Why Did the Thermal Fuse Blow?
- Electrical & Gas Safety Protocols
- Need Professional Dryer Dispatch?
- Brand Engineering Differences (Whirlpool, Samsung, LG, GE)
- Repair vs. Replace Cost Analysis
- Key Takeaways
- Frequently Asked Questions
Few household maintenance headaches are as perplexing as a clothes dryer that sounds like it is working perfectly—the drum is spinning vigorously, the blower fan is humming, and the timer is counting down—yet after an hour of running, your wet laundry emerges just as damp and cold as when it left the washing machine.
Because the mechanical tumbling system operates independently from the heating circuit, homeowners frequently misdiagnose the problem as a catastrophic motor or computer board failure. In reality, the heating assembly consists of a series of discrete, testable thermal and electrical components wired in a safety loop.
Whether you are troubleshooting a 240-volt electric clothes dryer or a natural gas unit, this guide walks you through the exact diagnostic flowchart professional appliance repair technicians use to isolate burned-out coils, failed igniters, open safety fuses, and faulty solenoids.
Note: If your dryer generates heat but takes two or three cycles to dry clothes completely, your issue is likely an airflow restriction rather than a total heating failure. Consult our comprehensive companion guide: Why Does My Dryer Take So Long to Dry? (Vent Restrictions & Airflow).
Electric vs. Gas Heating: How Each Generates Thermal Energy
To pinpoint why your dryer runs cold, you must first understand the fundamental operating differences between electric and gas thermal circuits:
Electric Dryers (240V AC)
Electric dryers require a dedicated 240-volt, 30-amp circuit. Voltage is split across two 120-volt legs (Line 1 and Line 2).
- Power Consumption: 4,500 to 5,600 Watts.
- Heat Source: High-resistance nichrome (nickel-chromium) wire coiled inside a metal shroud.
- Safety Loop: Current flows through the timer/control, high-limit thermostat, thermal cut-off, heating element, and the motor's internal centrifugal switch.
- Crucial Clue: Drum motor runs on 120V (L1). If L2 trips at your breaker, the motor spins, but zero heat is generated.
Gas Dryers (120V AC + Gas Line)
Gas dryers plug into a standard 120-volt wall outlet to power the motor and control board, while burning natural gas or LP propane for heat.
- Thermal Output: 18,000 to 22,000 BTUs per hour.
- Ignition System: Solid-state silicon carbide or silicon nitride hot surface igniter that glows white-hot (~2,200°F).
- Safety Loop: A radiant flame sensor detects igniter heat, shuts off current to the igniter, and energizes dual electromagnetic solenoid valve coils to release gas across the burner.
- Crucial Clue: Failure of any single sensor, coil, or igniter prevents the gas safety valve from ever releasing gas.
Top 5 Reasons an Electric Dryer Won't Heat
If you own an electric clothes dryer (Whirlpool, Maytag, Samsung, LG, GE, or Kenmore), these five mechanical failures account for 95% of no-heat service calls:
Tripped Half of the 240V Dual-Pole Circuit Breaker
This is the single most common "false breakdown" in residential appliance repair. Your home electrical panel feeds your electric dryer through a double-pole 30-amp circuit breaker connected by a plastic tie bar. However, internal mechanical wear or a momentary power surge can cause one individual pole to trip while the other remains energized.
Because the drum motor, interior drum light, and digital console only require 120 volts (drawn from Leg 1), the dryer sounds and looks 100% operational. But without Leg 2, the 240-volt heating element receives zero potential difference and stays ice cold.
Burned-Out or Physically Broken Heating Element
The heart of an electric dryer is the heating element assembly—a long, coiled strand of nickel-chromium alloy wire strung through ceramic insulating standoffs inside a metal duct. Over thousands of hours of thermal expansion and contraction (heating to 1,000°F and cooling to room temperature), the metal weakens, oxidizes, and snaps.
Once the wire breaks, the continuous electrical circuit is severed, creating an open loop (infinite resistance). On modern Samsung and LG dryers, elements can also sag over time, touching the metal housing wall and creating a dead ground short that trips the breaker or burns out the element instantly.
Blown Thermal Cut-Off (TCO) or High-Limit Thermostat
Electric dryers are engineered with multiple levels of redundant thermal protection mounted directly on the heater housing. The High-Limit Thermostat is a bimetal disc that opens at approximately 200°F to 250°F if airflow is choked, cycling the element off until temperatures drop.
Positioned right next to it is the Thermal Cut-Off (TCO) fuse. If temperatures spike beyond 300°F (typically due to a clogged vent pipe), the internal link inside the TCO melts permanently. Unlike the cycling thermostat, a blown thermal cut-off cannot reset itself. It permanently kills electrical current to the heating coil.
Defective Motor Centrifugal Switch
Dryer manufacturers implement a critical fire safety interlock: the heating element must never energize unless the blower fan is spinning at full operating speed. If the heater turned on while the motor was stationary, the stagnant air would ignite residual lint within seconds.
This safety interlock is governed by a mechanical centrifugal switch mounted to the rear of the main drive motor. When the motor reaches approximately 75% of full rotational speed (~1,725 RPM), centrifugal weights swing outward, closing heavy electrical contacts that complete the 240-volt circuit to the heating element. Over time, laundry lint coats these contacts, or the copper contact arms arc and pit, preventing current flow even when the motor is running.
Melted 240V Power Cord Terminal Block
Where the 3-wire or 4-wire power cord connects to the back of the dryer cabinet, three heavy brass terminals are anchored in a plastic terminal block. Because the dryer draws 20 to 24 continuous amps under load, any loose screw terminal creates electrical micro-arcing.
Micro-arcing generates extreme localized heat, melting the plastic terminal block and charring the spade connectors. Frequently, the L2 terminal burns clean through, breaking connection to the heating element while leaving the 120-volt neutral and L1 motor circuit intact.
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Top 5 Reasons a Gas Dryer Won't Heat
Gas clothes dryers rely on an automated electro-mechanical combustion sequence. When a gas dryer spins without heating, one of these five components has failed:
Fractured Hot Surface Igniter
Modern gas dryers do not use a standing pilot light. Instead, they use a high-temperature silicon carbide or silicon nitride hot surface igniter. When the dryer starts, 120 volts energizes the igniter element, causing it to glow bright white-orange and reach temperatures exceeding 2,000°F.
Igniter elements are extremely brittle and sensitive to thermal shock and vibration. Over years of thermal cycling, hairline fractures develop across the carborundum element. Once fractured, electrical current cannot cross the gap: the igniter stays black, the flame sensor never activates, and the gas valve remains locked shut.
Weak Gas Valve Solenoid Coils (Thermal Breakdown)
The gas valve assembly uses two electromagnetic solenoid coils mounted on top of the valve body: a 2-terminal secondary coil and a 3-terminal split/boost coil. When energized, these solenoids create a magnetic field that physically lifts spring-loaded plunger valves to release gas into the burner tube.
The hallmark symptom of failing gas coils is intermittent or short-duration heat. When the dryer is cold, the coils energize normally, the igniter glows, the valve opens, and a vigorous flame ignites. But after 8 to 15 minutes of operation, internal copper winding resistance increases as the coils warm up. The magnetic field weakens, the plunger drops shut, and the flame extinguishes. For the remainder of the 50-minute cycle, the coils cannot reopen, leaving clothes cold and wet.
Defective Radiant Flame Sensor
The flame sensor (or radiant sensor) is a bimetallic safety switch clipped directly onto the metal burner funnel next to the igniter. Its job is to verify that the igniter has reached sufficient ignition temperature before gas is released.
When room temperature, the flame sensor switch is closed (0 ohms), directing full current through the igniter. As the igniter reaches 2,000°F, radiant heat causes the bimetal strip to warp and snap open. This sudden switch opening redirects current away from the igniter and into the gas valve solenoid coils, releasing gas across the white-hot igniter to ignite the flame. If the flame sensor contacts fail to close at room temperature, current never reaches the igniter; if they fail to open, gas is never released.
Blown Thermal Fuse on the Blower Housing
On gas clothes dryers, the primary thermal fuse is typically mounted directly on the white plastic blower exhaust housing. This fuse is wired directly in series with the entire burner ignition circuit.
If the dryer exhaust ductwork is clogged with lint or the outdoor damper is pinned shut, exhaust air cannot escape. The temperature at the blower fan rapidly exceeds 196°F, melting the internal thermal link. While the dryer drum will continue to spin and circulate room air, the blown thermal fuse cuts all electrical power to the burner assembly—rendering the igniter and gas valve completely inoperative.
Closed Manual Gas Shut-Off Valve or Tripped Regulator
It sounds elementary, but every technician encounters gas dryers that produce no heat simply because the manual gas supply valve behind the unit was bumped shut during cleaning, or remained closed following a recent home move or plumbing repair.
Additionally, modern flexible stainless-steel gas supply lines often incorporate an internal Excess Flow Valve (EFV). If the gas line was disconnected or reconnected too quickly, the sudden rush of line pressure can trigger the EFV ball valve to slam shut, blocking gas flow to the burner despite the manual valve handle being aligned with the pipe.
Symptom & Failure Mode Quick Reference Matrix
Use this diagnostic reference table to correlate your dryer's specific behavior with the most probable mechanical failure:
| Dryer Type | Observed Symptoms | Most Likely Cause | Multimeter Test Target | Urgency / Action |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Electric | Drum spins, blower blows, air completely cold from start | Tripped 2nd breaker pole or burned heating element | Check 240V at terminal block; 8.5–12.5Ω on element | Reset double-pole breaker; test element continuity |
| Electric | Heats for 3–5 minutes, shuts off, blows cold rest of cycle | High-limit cycling on clogged exhaust vent; cycling thermostat | Measure duct backpressure; test cycling thermostat | Clean exhaust vent immediately; check thermostat temp ratings |
| Electric | Burning smell, black soot on rear terminal block, no heat | Loose cord wiring arced and melted terminal block | Visual inspection; continuity across L1-N and L2-N | Immediate fire hazard; unplug cord, replace terminal block |
| Gas | Drum spins, no orange glow through peephole, cold air | Burned hot surface igniter or blown thermal fuse | Igniter continuity (50–400Ω); Thermal fuse (0.0Ω) | Replace broken igniter or thermal fuse; vacuum vent |
| Gas | Igniter glows bright orange, clicks, fades out, no flame | Weak gas valve solenoid coils or bad flame sensor | Coil resistance: 2-pin (1,000–1,400Ω); 3-pin (1,300Ω & 550Ω) | Replace both solenoid coils as a kit; inspect flame sensor |
| Gas | Flame lights for 5–10 minutes, shuts off, cycle finishes cold | Solenoid coil internal thermal breakdown (fatigue) | Bench test coils under heat gun simulation | Replace solenoid coil pack (Whirlpool #279834 or OEM) |
Step-by-Step Multimeter Tests: Electric Dryers
Before purchasing replacement parts, use a digital multimeter to confirm which component is defective. Set your multimeter to the lowest Resistance / Ohms (Ω) setting, or use Continuity mode (beeper).
Electric clothes dryers operate on lethal 240-volt potential. Always unplug the heavy power cord from the wall outlet before removing any access panels. Never touch wiring or perform resistance tests on energized circuits. Always disconnect at least one wire lead from any component before testing to prevent false back-feed continuity through parallel circuits.
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Step 1: Test Voltage at the Receptacle & Terminal Block (Live Test)
With the multimeter set to AC Volts (600V range), test across the outer hot legs of your dryer wall receptacle. You should read 240V (±10V). Next, test each hot leg to the neutral/ground slot—each must read 120V. If you read 120V from L1 to neutral, but 0V from L2 to neutral, the household breaker is tripped or your 240V outlet is burned.
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Step 2: Test the Heating Element Assembly
Unplug the dryer. Remove the lower front access panel or the rear galvanized access panel (depending on brand). Locate the metal heater duct. Pull both wire leads off the heating element spade terminals. Place meter probes across the two element terminals:
- Normal Reading: 8.5 to 12.5 Ω. This confirms the nichrome wire coil is intact.
- Defective Reading: OL (Open Loop / Infinite Resistance). The coil is snapped; replace the element.
- Ground Short Test: Place one probe on an element terminal and the other probe on the bare metal heater casing. The meter MUST read OL (no continuity). If it reads any resistance or beeps, the coil is shorted to the frame, posing a severe shock and overheating hazard.
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Step 3: Test the High-Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Off
Mounted on the side of the metal heater housing are two small components: the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off fuse. Pull off their wire connectors. Place one probe on each terminal of the component:
- Normal Reading: 0.0 to 0.4 Ω (closed circuit, continuity beep).
- Defective Reading: OL (open circuit). The fuse has blown; replace both the fuse and thermostat as a matched set.
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Step 4: Test the Cycling Thermostat / Thermistor
Located on the blower housing near the lint chute, the cycling thermostat regulates internal drum temperature. On older mechanical dryers, test the two larger power terminals—it should read 0 Ω at room temperature. On modern computerized dryers equipped with a thermistor, test resistance: at room temperature (77°F), a standard thermistor reads approximately 10,000 Ω (10kΩ). If it reads open or dead short (0Ω), the control board will lock out the heater.
Step-by-Step Diagnostic Tests: Gas Dryers
Troubleshooting a gas clothes dryer requires diagnosing the sequential combustion chain:
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Step 1: Visual Observation of the Burner Chamber
Most gas dryers feature a small removable plastic or metal plug near the lower-left front corner of the cabinet. Pop this plug out with a flathead screwdriver and shine a flashlight inside to locate the cylindrical burner tube. Start a regular timed-dry high-heat cycle:
- Observation A: No glow whatsoever. Proceed to Step 2 to test the igniter and thermal fuse.
- Observation B: Igniter glows bright orange, clicks, turns off, no flame. Proceed to Step 3 to test the gas valve solenoid coils.
- Observation C: Flame ignites, burns blue for 5 minutes, extinguishes and never returns. Solenoid coils are suffering thermal breakdown; proceed to Step 3.
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Step 2: Test the Hot Surface Igniter for Continuity
Unplug the dryer from the 120V outlet. Locate the wiring harness connector leading to the igniter. Disconnect the plastic plug. Touch your multimeter probes to the two metal pins in the igniter plug:
- Normal Reading: 50 to 400 Ω (flat style) or 40 to 100 Ω (spiral nitride style).
- Defective Reading: OL (open circuit). Even a hairline crack breaks the circuit; replace the igniter. Warning: Never touch the dark ceramic element of a new igniter with bare fingers—skin oils create hot spots that cause premature burnout.
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Step 3: Test Gas Valve Solenoid Coils with a Multimeter
Unplug the wire harnesses from the solenoid coils atop the gas valve. There are two separate coil packs:
- 2-Terminal Secondary Coil: Measure across both terminals. A healthy coil reads between 1,000 and 1,400 Ω.
- 3-Terminal Split / Boost Coil: Measure between terminal 1 and terminal 2: reading should be 1,300 to 1,400 Ω. Measure between terminal 1 and terminal 3: reading should be 500 to 600 Ω.
- Interpretation: If any coil terminal pair reads OL or significantly deviates from these resistance thresholds, the coil is dead. Because coils often fail only when hot, replacing both coils is standard practice if the igniter glows and fades without flame ignition.
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Step 4: Test the Radiant Flame Sensor
Remove the single mounting screw securing the flame sensor to the burner funnel. Disconnect the two spade wire leads. Test for continuity across both terminals at room temperature. The meter must register complete continuity (0.0 to 0.2 Ω). If it reads OL at room temperature, the switch is permanently open, preventing the igniter from receiving electrical power.
The Critical Danger: Why Did the Thermal Fuse Blow?
When DIY homeowners discover a blown thermal cut-off fuse or high-limit thermostat, the natural reaction is to order a $15 replacement kit online, install the new parts, and consider the job done.
This is a critical mistake that frequently causes repeat failures within 48 hours—or worse, a residential lint fire.
A thermal fuse is a one-time sacrificial safety device designed to melt its internal solder alloy link when temperatures surpass 196°F to 220°F. It blew because trapped heat could not escape your clothes dryer. In over 85% of cases, the true culprit is a dense accumulation of lint choking the 4-inch exhaust duct, a bird's nest blocking the exterior wall cap, or a flexible foil duct that was crushed flat behind the machine when it was pushed against the wall.
Before installing a new thermal fuse or heating element, you must:
- Disconnect the flexible transition duct from the back of the dryer and check for heavy lint compaction.
- Inspect the exterior vent damper outside your home to ensure the louvers swing open freely under blower pressure.
- Clean the interior blower housing around the fan impeller blades using a high-suction shop vacuum.
- Replace flimsy, ribbed foil or vinyl plastic ducts with rigid or semi-rigid aluminum ductwork that meets UL 2158A building code standards.
Electrical & Gas Safety Protocols
Diagnosing dryer heat failure exposes technicians and homeowners to high-risk hazards. Adhere strictly to these safety rules:
240V Electrical Shock Hazard
240 volts can cause severe electrical shock, cardiac arrest, or fatal burns. Always disconnect the power plug or lock out the dual-pole breaker before removing access panels. Discharge any control board capacitors before touching terminal boards.
Gas Leak & Carbon Monoxide Risk
Natural gas and propane pose severe explosion and asphyxiation risks. Shut off the manual 1/2-inch gas valve before servicing burner components. After completing any gas valve service, test all threaded joints using an electronic combustible gas sniffer or bubbling leak detection fluid.
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Brand Engineering Differences (Whirlpool, Samsung, LG, GE)
While all dryers operate on the same fundamental thermodynamic principles, specific manufacturers feature distinct heating assembly layouts and known failure points:
Whirlpool, Maytag & Kenmore
Whirlpool-built dryers utilize the classic 279838 heating element housed in a vertical heater duct on the lower right rear. The 3392519 thermal fuse on the blower housing is the most commonly blown part in North America. On gas models, the dual-coil pack (part #279834) is the primary cause of intermittent cold cycles.
Samsung
Samsung dryers feature a horizontal heating element assembly (DC47-00019A) positioned beneath the drum, accessible through the front lower bulkhead. Samsung heating coils are notorious for stretching and sagging over time, contacting the metal duct wall and causing error codes hE or HE.
LG Electronics (Sensor Dry & Front-Load Series)
On LG Sensor Dry dryers (including popular series like the LG DLE2301W, DLEX, and DLG models), the unit incorporates solid-state moisture sensor bars with "Flow Sense" exhaust monitoring. When sensor bars become coated with fabric softener residue or when exhaust restriction occurs (codes d80, d90, d95), the board cuts off the heating circuit to protect the drum. LG electric heater assemblies (part #5301EL1001A / AEG33121501) feature two internal 2,400W coils; if one coil fractures or the high-limit thermostat trips, the dryer tumbles cold. Code tE confirms a defective thermistor sensor.
GE & Profile
GE dryers generally position the heating element behind a removable rear panel or within a front-serviceable duct. Older GE models feature an internal reset button on the high-limit thermostat located on the back panel. Error code 007 or flashing status LEDs indicate heating circuit communication drops.
Repair vs. Replace Cost Analysis
When a clothes dryer stops heating, homeowners often wonder whether it makes financial sense to repair the existing machine or purchase a brand-new appliance.
| Component / Service | Average Repair Cost | New Appliance Cost | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Electric Heating Element Assembly | $165 – $245 (Parts + Labor) | $700 – $1,400 + Install | Strongly Recommend Repair. Heating elements are standard wear items. Replacing the assembly restores full heating performance. |
| Thermal Fuse & High-Limit Kit | $125 – $185 (Parts + Labor) | $700 – $1,400 + Install | Strongly Recommend Repair. Inexpensive safety repair. Ensure the exhaust duct is cleaned during the same service call. |
| Gas Burner Coils or Igniter | $150 – $230 (Parts + Labor) | $800 – $1,500 (Gas units cost more) | Strongly Recommend Repair. Gas valves rarely fail completely; replacing coils or igniters delivers years of additional life. |
| Main Electronic Control Board | $260 – $380 (Parts + Labor) | $700 – $1,400 + Install | Evaluate Age. If the dryer is under 8 years old, repair. If over 10 years old with worn bearings, consider replacement. |
| Drive Motor / Blower Housing | $250 – $380 (Parts + Labor) | $700 – $1,400 + Install | Evaluate Condition. If the drum rollers, belt, and cabinet are in good condition, motor replacement is worthwhile. |
The 50% Rule of Appliance Repair: If your dryer is under 10 years old and the estimated repair cost is less than 50% of the price of a comparable new machine, repairing the appliance is almost always the smarter financial decision. Modern clothes dryers have minimal mechanical differences compared to units built 10 years ago, and repairing avoids delivery fees, installation plumbing costs, and old-appliance disposal charges.
Key Takeaways
- Always check the breaker first: Electric dryers run the drum motor on 120V (Leg 1) and the heating element on 240V (Leg 1 + Leg 2). A tripped second breaker pole causes the dryer to spin normally while producing zero heat.
- Multimeter testing isolates the culprit: A good electric element measures 8.5 to 12.5 ohms; a good gas igniter measures 50 to 400 ohms; safety fuses and flame sensors must read 0 ohms at room temperature.
- Intermittent gas heat points to solenoid coils: If a gas dryer heats for 5 to 10 minutes and then runs cold for the rest of the cycle, the gas valve solenoid coils have suffered thermal fatigue and cannot reopen.
- A blown thermal fuse is a symptom, not the root cause: Thermal fuses melt because trapped heat cannot escape. Always clean the entire 4-inch exhaust ductwork before or during fuse replacement.
- Repair is far more economical than replacement: Heating elements, igniters, and thermal kits cost between $125 and $245 installed—saving hundreds compared to buying a new $700–$1,400 clothes dryer.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my electric dryer spin and blow air but produce zero heat?
An electric clothes dryer requires 240 volts of electricity delivered through two separate 120-volt legs (L1 and L2). The drive drum motor, timer, and internal console electronics operate on 120 volts (L1 to neutral). The high-wattage heating element requires 240 volts (L1 to L2). If one leg of your household double-pole 30-amp circuit breaker trips, the dryer motor will continue to spin normally, but the heating element will receive zero power. After ruling out the breaker, the failure is almost always a severed nichrome heating element coil, a blown thermal cut-off fuse, or an open motor centrifugal switch.
How can I tell if my gas dryer igniter or solenoid coils are bad?
Observe the burner view port during cycle startup. If the igniter never glows red or white-hot, either the igniter element has physically fractured (test for continuity; standard igniters should read 50 to 400 ohms), the thermal fuse is open, or the flame sensor is defective. If the igniter glows bright orange, clicks, and then fades out without lighting any flame, the gas valve solenoid coils have failed, the flame sensor is opening prematurely, or the gas supply valve is closed.
Why did my dryer's thermal fuse blow in the first place?
Thermal fuses blow as a non-resettable safety response to dangerous internal overheating—most commonly caused by a clogged or crushed exterior exhaust vent duct. When exhaust airflow drops below 100 CFM, heat accumulates rapidly inside the heater housing. Once temperatures exceed the fuse threshold (typically 196°F to 220°F), the internal alloy link melts to prevent a structural house fire. Never replace a blown thermal fuse without thoroughly clearing the lint exhaust ductwork from the dryer back to the exterior hood.
How many ohms should a good electric dryer heating element have?
A standard residential electric dryer heating element (rated for 4,500 to 5,400 watts at 240V) should measure between 8.5 and 12.5 ohms of resistance across its terminal terminals when tested with a digital multimeter. A reading of OL (Open Loop / infinite resistance) indicates a severed nichrome wire that cannot conduct electricity. Additionally, test between each terminal and the metal heater casing—this must read OL (infinite resistance). Any measurable resistance to ground indicates a dangerous shorted element.
How much does it cost to fix a dryer that won't heat?
In the Chicago southwest suburbs, professional dryer heat repair typically ranges from $140 to $260. Replacing an electric heating element assembly costs between $165 and $245 including OEM parts and labor. Replacing a thermal fuse and high-limit thermostat kit ranges from $125 to $185. Gas burner repairs (igniters or solenoid coils) generally run between $150 and $230. These repairs are exceptionally cost-effective compared to buying a replacement dryer ($700 to $1,400).
Sources & Diagnostic Standards
- NFPA 211: National Fire Protection Association standard for chimneys, fireplaces, vents, and solid fuel-burning appliances.
- CPSC Document #5022: U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission Overheating and Clothes Dryer Safety Recommendations.
- UL 2158A: Standard for safety requirements of electric clothes dryers and flexible transition ducting.
- AHAM (Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers): Standard performance and energy measurement protocols for residential laundry equipment.
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